Don’t have the ideal climate or space for an in-ground olive tree? No problem! Arbequina olive trees thrive in containers, making them perfect for patios, balconies, or even indoors by a sunny window. Growing an olive tree in a pot allows gardeners in colder regions to enjoy these beautiful, productive plants by moving them as needed. In this guide, we’ll share everything you need to know about raising a happy, healthy Arbequina olive tree in a container.
Why Grow Olives in Containers?
Growing an olive tree in a container offers several benefits:
- Climate Flexibility: If your winters are too cold for an olive tree to survive outdoors year-round, you can keep it in a pot and bring it indoors or into a sheltered area during freezing weather. Arbequina olives can tolerate brief dips near 20 °F, but sustained freezing is dangerous – a potted tree can simply be relocated to safety when temperatures plummet.
- Space Saving: Not everyone has room for a full-sized olive tree in the yard. In a pot, Arbequinas can be kept smaller (often 4–6 feet tall) by pruning and root confinement. This makes them suitable for small gardens, decks, or even as an attractive houseplant.
- Mobility: You can move the tree for optimal conditions – for example, wheel it into more sun, or shift its location if one spot becomes too hot or windy. You can even use it as a decorative accent in different parts of your outdoor living area through the seasons.
- Control: Container growing allows you to control the soil type and drainage easily by using a customized potting mix. You also have a bit more control over water since the tree isn’t reliant on ground soil conditions.
- No Invasive Roots: Olives typically aren’t known for invasive roots, but if you’re worried about planting near structures or pipes, a container eliminates that concern entirely.
Now, let’s dive into how to set up and care for your potted Arbequina.
Setting Up Your Potted Olive Tree
1. Choosing the Right Container: For a young Arbequina, start with a pot about 12–14 inches in diameter (roughly a 5-gallon size). As the tree grows over the years, you may graduate to larger pots (20+ inches wide). The pot should have drainage holes – this is critical. Materials can be terra cotta, ceramic, plastic, or wood planters. Terra cotta is classic and porous (good for preventing overwatering), but it is heavy and can crack in freezing temps. Plastic is lightweight and easier to move, but be careful it doesn’t blow over if it’s too light. Ensure the pot is sturdy enough to support the tree without tipping. Some gardeners use wheeled plant caddies under big pots to assist with moving them.
2. Soil Mix: The soil in a container is your tree’s entire world, so make it a good one. Use a well-draining potting mix. You can buy a pre-made mix labeled for citrus or cactus (both usually have good drainage properties) or make your own. A simple mix for olives could be: 2 parts high-quality all-purpose potting soil, 1 part coarse sand or perlite (for drainage). You could also add 1 part compost for some organic matter, but be cautious with too much compost or peat as they hold a lot of water. The key is that when you water, excess water should percolate through quickly and out the bottom. If you see water pooling on top for minutes, the mix might be too dense.
3. Potting the Tree: Fill the new container with a few inches of soil mix. Remove the Arbequina from its nursery pot by tipping it on its side and gently working it out (support the trunk and root ball). Position it in the new pot so that the top of the root ball is about an inch below the pot’s rim (this makes watering easier because you have a little “lip” to hold water). Add or remove soil under the root ball as needed for height. Then fill soil in around the sides, firming it lightly as you go to eliminate big air pockets. When filled, the soil should cover the root ball and come to about the same level as it was in the old pot (don’t bury the trunk deeper than it was originally).
4. Initial Watering: After potting, give it a thorough watering. Slowly pour water over the soil surface until it runs out the drainage holes. This not only waters the tree but also helps settle the soil around the roots. If the soil level sinks a bit, top it off. Make sure no large roots are exposed on the surface.
5. Location, Location, Location: Place your potted Arbequina in a sunny spot outdoors. Full sun (6+ hours/day) is ideal. A south-facing deck or patio is wonderful. If outdoors is impossible and you must keep it inside, choose the sunniest window (south or west facing) you have. You might need supplemental grow lights indoors to maintain the tree’s health long-term, as olives really prefer lots of light. Outdoors during summer, try to avoid a location that is extremely windy unless your pot is heavy or secured, as strong winds can knock over pots or dry them out quickly.
6. Aftercare for New Potted Trees: For the first week or two, keep an eye on the soil moisture. Potted soil can dry faster than ground soil. You don’t want it bone dry during the establishment phase. Check the top inch of soil daily; water when it feels dry to the touch.
Routine Care for Potted Arbequina Olive Trees
Now that your olive tree is snug in its container, ongoing care will ensure it grows well and eventually produces olives.
Watering: This is the big one for container plants. In a pot, olives cannot send roots deeper to find water; they rely on you. Water when the top 1–2 inches of soil are dry. During the hot growing season, that might be once or twice a week. In peak summer heat, you might even water every 2-3 days if the pot is small and in full sun. It’s better to water deeply until it drains out than to do frequent light sprinklings (deep watering encourages deeper root growth within the pot and flushes out any salt build-up from fertilizers). However, do not let the pot sit in standing water – always ensure water can freely drain. Soggy, constantly wet soil will suffocate roots and can lead to root rot. On the flip side, don’t let the soil become powdery dry for long periods or the tree will wilt and get stressed (though an established olive can bounce back from severe dryness, repeated stress will reduce its vigor and fruiting). Basically, aim for even moisture with slight drying between waterings. With a bit of practice, you’ll get a feel for it.
Fertilizing: Potted plants generally need more feeding than in-ground ones because nutrients wash out of the pot over time with watering. Feed your Arbequina olive about twice a year during the growing season. A balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer (such as an Osmocote 14-14-14 or a fruit tree fertilizer) applied in spring and again in mid-summer works well. Alternatively, you can use a liquid fertilizer (like an all-purpose or citrus fertilizer) diluted as directed, feeding perhaps monthly from spring through late summer. Don’t fertilize in fall or winter – you want the tree to slow down in the cold season, not push tender new growth. If you prefer organic, mix some compost into the top layer of soil in spring or use organic liquid feeds (fish emulsion, kelp, etc.) occasionally during spring/summer. Watch the tree’s foliage: pale or yellowish new leaves might indicate it wants some food (or possibly iron, which can be given via foliar sprays if needed). Deep green healthy growth means your feeding schedule is on point.
Sunlight (Indoor vs. Outdoor): From spring to fall, try to keep your olive outdoors in full sun. They really do best with natural direct light. If you must keep it indoors (apartment dwellers, for instance, in winter months), give it the brightest spot possible. A sunroom or greenhouse is fantastic. If in a regular room, put it right by the window. You may need to rotate the plant occasionally if it starts leaning toward the light (quarter turn each week can help it grow straight). If leaves start dropping indoors, it could be adjusting to lower light – minimize this by providing as much light as you can and avoid overwatering when light is low.
Pruning and Shaping: One benefit of containers is you can prune the tree to remain small. Arbequinas respond well to pruning. Each year or two, you may lightly trim back branch tips to encourage bushier growth and control height. The best time to prune is in late winter or very early spring before it starts active growth (if indoors, you can also do light pruning in early fall before bringing it in). Remove any dead twigs or crossing branches. If your potted olive grows vigorously, you might even prune twice a year (a lighter trim in summer to maintain shape, and a slightly harder prune in late winter). Common shapes for potted olives are either a small tree form (single trunk with a rounded canopy) or a bushy form. You can even train it as a bonsai-like gnarled miniature tree over time if that interests you. Remember, fruit is produced on the previous year’s growth, so don’t remove all the branch tips or you may sacrifice some olives. That said, when trees are young, focus on structure – you’ll still get fruit as it ages even if you prune.
Dealing with Root Growth: After a couple of years in the same pot, your Arbequina’s roots may fill the container. Signs of this include: needing water constantly (because roots take up so much space there’s little soil to hold moisture), roots poking out of drainage holes, or the tree becoming unstable. When this happens, you have two choices: repot into a larger container or root prune and refresh soil in the same container. Repotting to the next size up is straightforward – do it in spring ideally. Move up only a few inches in diameter each time; a too-large pot can hold excess water. Alternatively, if you want to keep the same size pot (for space or aesthetic reasons), you can do root pruning. This involves carefully sliding the root ball out, slicing away an inch or two of the outer roots all around (like peeling an onion layer), and then replanting it back in the same pot with fresh potting mix filling in around. This mildly root-bounds the plant again and gives it fresh soil and nutrients. Many people do this with potted fruit trees every few years to keep them small. Arbequinas tolerate this well if done during cool weather and if you trim the top a bit correspondingly to balance root loss.
Mulch the Top (Optional): You can put a thin layer of decorative gravel or bark on top of the soil in the pot. This can help reduce evaporation and keep weeds or fungus gnats down. Just don’t bury the trunk; keep the immediate base of the trunk clear.
Seasonal Considerations for Potted Olives
Summer: This is when your potted Arbequina will be in full growth mode. Water frequently, feed periodically, and watch it thrive. You might see clusters of small white flowers in late spring; outdoors, pollinators will usually handle fertilization (olives are wind-pollinated, and self-fertile in Arbequina’s case). If indoors, you might need to play pollinator with a small brush, gently brushing from flower to flower, but often indoor trees won’t fruit heavily unless they get outdoor time. In high heat, check soil daily – pots can dry out quickly on a hot patio.
Fall: Time to prepare for colder weather. If you’re in a climate where frost is imminent, plan to transition the tree to a protected spot. Ideally, you want to gradually acclimate it to indoor conditions if it’s been outside. Sudden moves from bright sun to dim indoors can cause leaf drop. As nights dip into the 40s°F, you can start bringing the tree in at night and back out during day, or move it to a porch or garage at night. This helps it adjust. Reduce fertilizer in early fall to let the plant slow down naturally.
Winter: Arbequinas appreciate a cooler rest period, even when grown in pots. If you can keep it in a cool greenhouse or unheated sunroom where temps stay between, say, 40–60 °F, that would be perfect. If indoors in living quarters, try to keep it away from direct heat sources (like vents or radiators) because olives prefer it on the cooler side in winter. Water much less in winter – the tree will use less water when it’s not actively growing. Keep soil just barely moist, and definitely avoid waterlogging in the cooler, darker months. If some leaves drop indoors, don’t panic; olives are semi-deciduous if light levels drop – they’ll regrow new leaves in spring. Give it as much light as possible (maybe put it under a grow light if your indoor light is weak). Also, watch for indoor pests like spider mites – indoor air can be dry and mites love that. If you see any fine webbing or stippled leaves, mist the plant or rinse foliage in the sink/shower occasionally to discourage mites.
Spring: As temperatures warm and frost danger passes, it’s time to move your olive back outside (if it spent winter indoors). Again, do this gradually. Direct spring sun can scorch leaves that developed in dimmer indoor light. So first put the pot in bright shade or partial sun for a few days, then gradually increase sun over 1–2 weeks. Once it’s fully hardened off to outdoor sun, it can resume its prime sunny spot. Spring is also the time to do repotting or root pruning if needed. New growth will soon start – you’ll notice fresh green shoots and possibly flower buds if the tree is mature enough to fruit.
Special Tips for Success
- Companion Planting: You can underplant your olive’s pot with some trailing herbs or flowers if the pot is large enough. Just ensure they have similar watering needs (drought-tolerant herbs like thyme could work). This can make the container look even more attractive. However, don’t overcrowd – the olive’s roots come first.
- Observation: Get in the habit of checking your potted olive regularly. Feel the soil, look at the leaves (are they dusty? maybe give them a gentle wipe or shower – clean leaves photosynthesize better). Early detection of any issues (be it pests or nutrient deficiencies) makes them easy to manage.
- Prune for Size: If your olive is hitting the ceiling indoors or outgrowing the look you want, don’t be afraid to prune it. Arbequinas can even be pruned into a topiary or kept shrub-like. They are very forgiving. It’s actually better to do light pruning every year than to neglect for many years and then have to do a severe chop.
- Enjoy the Journey: A potted Arbequina olive is not just a fruit tree; it’s a piece of living decor and a conversation piece. Enjoy its presence – the way sunlight filters through those gray-green leaves, the gnarled character the trunk develops, and the occasional delight of picking a home-grown olive. Even if you only get a modest harvest, you can cure a small batch or simply brag to friends that “this little tree produced these olives!”
By following these tips, your Arbequina olive tree should thrive in its container home. Container gardening with fruit trees can be incredibly rewarding, and olives are one of the best suited trees for it. They’re tough, beautiful, and will connect you with an ancient tradition of olive cultivation – right on your patio or in your living room.
So, grab that pot and potting mix, and give your Arbequina a cozy new home. With sunshine and a bit of care, you’ll have your own mini olive grove in a pot, no matter where you live. Happy container gardening!